
Water Heater Repair
If water is coming from the tank itself rather than a connection, shut the cold inlet valve and kill the power or gas to it, since a corroded tank can open up without much warning.
When this becomes an emergency
- Water pooling around the base of the tank.
- A metallic taste or discolored water from hot taps only.
- The burner or elements cycling far more than they used to.
- Corrosion crusting the fittings at the top of the tank.
What a pro does
A repair call starts with deciding whether the tank is worth repairing at all, and an honest plumber says so early. Leaks at the fittings, a failed thermostat, a burnt element or a bad gas control are all repairs. A tank weeping from the shell is not. From there the work depends on the water. In the sandhills and across rural stretches of North Carolina a great many homes run on private wells, and well water carries whatever the aquifer holds, which around here often means iron and a fair bit of dissolved mineral. That loads the bottom of the tank and it consumes the anode rod, the sacrificial magnesium or aluminum rod that corrodes so the steel does not. Checking that rod is the single most useful thing anyone does to a water heater, and on most tanks nobody ever has. The plumber drains and flushes the sediment out, pulls the rod to see what is left of it, checks the relief valve, and looks at whether the expansion tank on a closed system is still holding air. Small things, done in order, and they're what keeps a tank alive.
Frequently asked questions
Keep going
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